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MTB Hubs

MTB hubs form the centerpiece of the wheel, directly affecting spoke compatibility, wheel mounting methods, and the resulting drivetrain responsiveness.

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How to Choose an MTB Hub

Front vs Rear Hub | Boost vs Non-Boost | Freehub Body Type: HG, XD, Microspline | 32 or 36 Holes | Hubs for Trail, Enduro, and Dirt | Popular Brands

The MTB hub is a crucial component of every mountain bike – it transfers power, supports the rider's weight, and holds the wheel securely in the frame or fork. Yet, when choosing one, it's easy to fall into the trap of wrong priorities. When selecting the right hub, price or weight are not nearly as decisive as compatibility with your frame, fork, cassette, and planned wheel build. The most common mistake is focusing on performance and overlooking axle dimensions or freehub type – then the hub simply won't fit your bike, and the whole purchase goes to waste.

Front or Rear MTB Hub?

The first step is always to clarify whether you are looking for a front MTB hub or a rear MTB hub. Each serves a different function and features different key parameters.

Type Purpose What to Check Typical Axle Dimensions
Front MTB Hub Mounting the front wheel and brake rotor Axle size, fork width, rotor mount type (6-bolt / Centerlock) 15×100 mm (non-Boost), 15×110 mm (Boost), 20×110 mm (DH)
Rear MTB Hub Power transfer and cassette mounting Frame dimensions, freehub body type, hole count, rotor mount type 12×142 mm (non-Boost), 12×148 mm (Boost), 10×135 mm (QR), 12×150 mm (DH)

If you already know which part of your bike you are addressing, go straight to the front MTB hubs or rear MTB hubs categories.

Boost or Non-Boost? How to Identify the Correct Axle Dimension

Confusing Boost and non-Boost standards is the most common cause of incompatibility when buying an MTB hub. The Boost standard was developed to provide a stiffer wheel build, better power transfer, and more precise geometry for modern drivetrains with narrow chainrings and wide cassettes. Today, it is used by the vast majority of new mountain bikes. However, many older frames and forks with non-Boost or QR axles still remain in active use.

Standard Front Axle Rear Axle Typical Intended Use
Boost 15×110 mm 12×148 mm Modern trail, enduro, XC bikes (from approx. 2016 onwards)
Non-Boost 15×100 mm 12×142 mm Older trail and enduro bikes, service replacement
QR (Quick Release) 9×100 mm 10×135 mm Dirt jump, freeride, older hardtails
Downhill 20×110 mm 12×150 mm (or 12×157 mm Super Boost) DH bikes, enduro with DH forks

Where can I find the dimensions? The axle size is most often stamped directly on the end of the fork or the rear dropouts of the frame. If you can't find it there, check the bike's manual or look up the frame specifications online using its model name and year of manufacture. Boost and non-Boost hubs are not interchangeable without specific adapters and rebuilding the wheel.

Freehub Body Type: HG, XD, or Microspline?

The freehub body on the rear hub determines which cassette you can mount. This is the part that transfers drive from the cassette to the hub via the engagement mechanism (ratchet/pawls). Different standards are not compatible with each other – choosing the wrong freehub type means the cassette simply won't fit. Fortunately, on the vast majority of hubs, the freehub body can be replaced separately without needing to purchase an entirely new hub.

Freehub Type System Speeds Note
HG (HyperGlide) Shimano, SRAM 8–11 speeds The most widespread standard, available for almost every hub
HG+ / MicroSpline HG Shimano 12s (older series) 12 speeds (selected models) A transitional standard, less widely used
XD SRAM Eagle and XX1 / X01 systems 11–12 speeds Requires SRAM XD cassettes; allows for a small 10T smallest sprocket
Microspline Shimano 12s (Deore, SLX, XT, XTR, Cues) 12 speeds Current Shimano standard for 12s; allows for a 10T smallest sprocket; not backward compatible with HG

How to choose quickly: Look at the name of your derailleur or cassette. SRAM Eagle, X01, XX1 = XD freehub. Shimano XT M8100, XTR M9100, SLX M7100, Deore M6100, Cues = Microspline freehub. Shimano or SRAM with 8–11 speeds = HG freehub. If you only need to replace the freehub body itself, look in the freehub bodies for MTB hubs category.

32 or 36 Holes? Making the Right Choice for Your Riding Style

The hole count of the hub must exactly match the hole count of the rim – otherwise, the wheel cannot be built. You will find the widest selection of hubs and rims in 32-hole and 36-hole variations. Each has its specific place:

Hole Count Advantages Disadvantages Typical Application
32-Hole MTB Hub Lower weight, wider selection of rims, sufficient stiffness for most riders Lower durability under extreme loads Trail, enduro, XC, lighter freeride
36-Hole MTB Hub Higher wheel strength and stiffness, greater durability for heavy riding and hard landings Higher weight, narrower selection of rims Downhill, dirt jump, freeride, heavier riders

If you are building a new bike from scratch, make sure to double-check the rim's hole count before purchasing the hub. You can find an overview of compatible components in the rims and spokes and nipples categories.

Which Hub is Best for Trail, Enduro, or Dirt?

Different MTB disciplines put different demands on the hub – requiring different axle standards, hole counts, and structural robustness. This overview will help you quickly find what you need:

Discipline Axle (Rear) Hole Count Typical Freehub What Matters Most
Trail / XC 12×148 mm (Boost) 32 HG or Microspline Low weight, bearing longevity
Enduro 12×148 mm (Boost) 32 XD or Microspline Robustness, reliability under load
Dirt jump / Freeride 10×135 mm (QR) 36 HG Strength, impact resistance on landings
Downhill 12×150 mm or 12×157 mm 36 HG or XD Maximum strength, ease of servicing

Popular MTB Hub Brands

Our selection includes MTB hubs from time-tested brands with a clear focus on individual disciplines. Whether you are looking for a hub for trail riding, enduro, dirt jump, or downhill, we have a reliable choice for you.

Dartmoor – a brand with a global reputation, heavily focused on dirt jump and freeride. Models like the Dartmoor Reel and Dartmoor Revolt are favorites for their robustness, availability of spare parts, and excellent price-to-performance ratio. Dartmoor hubs can easily handle heavy impacts on dirt tracks.

NS Bikes – The NS Rotary hub has earned a solid reputation among riders looking for a reliable, heavy-duty hub for dirt, freeride, and street at a reasonable price.

Halo – a British brand with a long history of manufacturing wheels and hubs. The Halo DJD hub is a proven choice for dirt jump and street riding, where durability and reliable performance during hard landings are paramount. Halo MTB hubs are built for harsh use and are easy to maintain.

RAPTOR – an affordable yet high-quality alternative for trail and enduro riders. The RAPTOR Bomber hub offers solid performance, compatibility with common standards, and an attractive price point, making it a popular choice when building a new wheel or replacing a damaged hub.

Common Mistakes When Choosing an MTB Hub

  • Confusing Boost and non-Boost → the hub won't fit the frame or fork without special adapters and rebuilding the wheel.
  • Wrong freehub body type → the cassette cannot be mounted (HG ≠ XD ≠ Microspline).
  • Hole count differs from the rim → it is impossible to lace and build the wheel.
  • Incorrect rotor mount standard → the brake disc cannot be mounted (confusing 6-bolt and Centerlock).
  • Prioritizing weight over compatibility → a beautifully lightweight hub that doesn't fit your bike is completely useless.
  • Buying a hub without checking the rim → the hole count or flange diameter won't match up.

Recommended Workflow:
First, determine if you need a front or rear hub → verify the axle standard (Boost 110/148 mm, non-Boost, QR, or DH) → identify the required freehub body type (HG, XD, or Microspline) → count the holes on your rim (32 or 36) → only then consider weight, hub body material, or the number of engagement points. If the axle or freehub standard doesn't match, no other parameters matter.

How do I know which MTB hub is right for my bike?

Check the axle dimension, hub width, hole count, and freehub body type. These four parameters dictate compatibility with your frame, fork, and cassette. The axle size is most commonly stamped directly on the fork end or the rear dropouts of the frame.

Boost vs non-Boost hub – what's the difference and how can I tell?

A Boost hub (front 15×110 mm / rear 12×148 mm) is the standard for modern mountain bikes from roughly 2016 onwards. Compared to non-Boost (15×100 / 12×142 mm), it offers a stiffer wheel and a better bracing angle for the spokes. These standards are not interchangeable. You can find the exact dimension stamped on the frame dropouts, the fork, or in the bike's manual.

What is a freehub body, and how do I choose between HG, XD, and Microspline?

The freehub body is the part of the rear hub onto which the cassette is mounted. The most widespread is HG (HyperGlide) for 8–11 speed systems. For a 12-speed SRAM Eagle system, you need an XD freehub, while 12-speed Shimano drivetrains (XT M8100, XTR M9100, Deore M6100, SLX, Cues) require a Microspline freehub. These standards are not compatible with each other, though on most hubs, the freehub body can be swapped independently.

32 or 36 holes – which one should I choose?

For trail and enduro riding, 32 holes are perfectly adequate in the vast majority of cases – they are lighter, and there is a wider selection of matching rims available. For downhill, dirt jump, freeride, or heavier riders, a 36-hole setup is preferable as it offers superior wheel strength. The hub's hole count must always exactly match the rim.